The
growth of the fashion industry in Abuja is yet to translate to
financial success for most operators, especially those providing support
services, reports Michaela Moye
The
fashion industry affects everyone, regardless of how unfashionable they
deem themselves. Although figures about the worth of the entire industry makes is almost impossible to ascertain, The Economist
reported that by early 2011, sales for Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessey
(LVMH) – which produces clothing, cosmetics, fashion accessories,
jewellery, perfume, spirits, watches, and wines – had risen by 13% to
10.3 billion Euros. By 2012, sales had shot up to 28 billion Euros.
Simply
put, there is a lot of money to be made in the fashion and beauty
industry and Nigerian designers, models, stylists, and photographers are
keying into this. But most of those providing support services in the
Abuja fashion industry are yet to strike it big. They are not giving up
though and they dream of the day they can turn their passions to
profits. We caught up with them to discuss the joys and perils of
servicing a growing industry.
The Photographers
Simi
Vijay Afun-Ogidan is quickly gaining prominence on the Abuja
photography scene. “I started two years ago,” he says. “I had some free
time between youth service and graduation from Abubakar Tafawa Balewa
University in Bauchi, where I studied Engineering. Within that timeframe
I got a camera and hung out with people in the Photo Wagon group,
including Aisha Augie-Kuta. From day one, she has been a role model and a
source of encouragement and support and has mentored me both in person
and through just seeing her work. I always tell people that she pushed
me into photography. Another photographer that really inspires me is Tom
Saater. Tom and Aisha are the most sincere people I know in
photography. They are always willing to help and I can bug them at any
time with questions.”
Afun-Ogidan
also got lucky early on when Aisha recommended him to her friend K’naan
Designs to do a couture abaya shoot, and since then his career has
grown. Now his portfolio includes magazine covers and exhibitions.
“There are still many aspects of photography that I would like to pay
attention to like portraiture and documentary photography.”
In
2012, he participated in a photo exhibition organized by the Australian
High Commission, alongside other Abuja photographers like Tersoo Gundu
and Saater. But he concedes that the city’s fashion industry is still
growing. “It’s a business with a lot of potential for high earnings,” he
states. “But it’s more limited here compared to Lagos. Most fashion
people are only recognized after heading to Lagos.”
Paul
Ukonu, a fashion photographer who relocated to Lagos from Abuja,
believes that “Lagos is where the real thing happens. Abuja may have
more cash, but Lagos is more profitable.” Swat Afengbai agrees. Also
self-taught, she runs a studio in her home, the venue of a series of
glamour-makeovers she is compiling for a coffee-table book. “Creativity
is exploited and appreciated in Lagos,” she says. “Photography is still
slow in Abuja. It’s still considered what you do at weddings or things
like political campaigns. One low point for me is when potential clients
are pricing your work like crayfish in the market.”
Afengbai
adds that “having the right connections” is important – a sentiment
that Afun-Ogidan echoes. “In my opinion, the clients here don’t really
value photography for what it is,” Afun-Ogidan adds. “Even though a lot
of people from other states think that Abuja is where the money is, the
truth is that after all my time spent here I’ve seen very few occasions
where those with all that cash bring it. They want the Lagos people and
the big brands to handle their work – unless you have the right
connections.”
He,
however, measures success in terms of impact and not just financial
reward: “people are beginning to know the name Simi Vijay Photography in
Abuja and have started appreciating my work. I think I’ve been able to
change people’s perception of photography; it’s not just about waiting
for your picture to be printed at a wedding. It’s about creativity.”
The Make-Up Artists
Bookie
Okoligwe, better known as B. La Vida has been a makeup artist for four
years. Although a graduate of Computer Science, Okoligwe has always had
an artistic streak and her passion for makeup has kept her at a
profession she describes as challenging.
“In
this industry if you’re not passion-driven, the likelihood of quitting
is very high,” she says. This sentiment is echoed by Anu Adebayo, a
freelance makeup artist who has worked on music videos, fashion shows,
pageants, photo books and advocacy events. “The passion and joy
outweighs the down times and I just psyche myself up to keep going,” she
says. “I thoroughly enjoy making people look good!”
Competition
in the industry is stiff, which is why neither woman has quit her day
job. Adebayo is a content editor for an online publication and Okoligwe
works with government, but she believes that there is enough work for
everyone. “The Abuja fashion industry is still growing, but we should
try to downplay competition and look towards collaboration to promote
the industry.”
Adebayo
also acknowledges that the capital’s fashion scene has a long way to
go. She says “it seems to be about the alleged glamour rather than
providing a valuable service of high quality to clients.” Another
downside is the lack of appreciation for the art. Okoligwe described an
occasion when a client’s young daughter, fascinated by her large
professional makeup case, told Okoligwe about her passion for makeup. “I
really want to be a makeup artist when I grow up,” the child said. The
mother’s response was: “Oh, so you want to be a school drop-out?”
Okoligwe lost her temper. “I was furious!” she reveals. “I had come to
her house straight from the office and I was still wearing my corporate
clothes. I packed up my things and left immediately.”
But
the makeup business retains its appeal, and artists enjoy the glitz of
working with celebrities and attending high profile events. Listed
amongst Okoligwe’s high-profile clientele is Nollywood actress Omoni
Oboli who she beautified for an ad campaign, and Adebayo served as the
makeup artist on a video shoot featuring Jesse Jagz, Ice Prince, DJ Atte
and the late Sazzy.
However,
the majority of the work done by artists are for private individuals
like brides and ladies-who-lunch who need a professional’s touch before
attending a major event. Okoligwe thinks it is easier to carve out a
niche in Abuja, a city she calls, “virgin territory.” But Adebayo
believes that location does not affect success. “Your work can speak for
itself anywhere you decide to be based,” she avers. “There are
successful makeup artists everywhere. I concentrate on how to succeed
globally rather than at a particular location.”
She
concedes that “regardless of your motive [for becoming a makeup
artist], profit is a necessary element to sustaining a business. It’s a
high point when I’m paid without struggle for a job, because I’ve met
some clients who choose to be intentionally difficult with payments. But
the makeup industry isn’t a place where you make money instantly. It is
often a long road to that place of breaking even, and you need to keep
improving your skills to remain relevant."
The Chaperone
Ezechukwu
Ugochukwu Victor is widely known as Vugo – a nickname that doubles as
his brand name. A graduate of Archaeology and Tourism from the
University of Nigeria Nsukka, he wears many hats in the fashion industry
as a makeup artist, model, pageant instructor and designer. “When I
graduated in 2010, I started modelling, and then in my NYSC year I began
to do makeup,” he states. “I became the official makeup artist for
270degrees on the MyTV Africa show.”
In
his second year at university while undergoing his industrial training
in an Enugu hotel, Vugo began grooming models. “Towards the end of my
training,” he reveals, “I suggested to the management that we host a
beauty pageant to promote the hotel.” Vugo acted as the chaperone (or
groomer) to the contestants, and today he teaches models how to catwalk
and instructs pageant hopefuls on how to impress the judges. “I groom
them in different routines – how to walk with heads held high, how to
smile gracefully and how to turn elegantly, how to answer questions and
even how to eat, dress and behave in public,” he adds.
Vugo
is impressed with the growth of the fashion scene in Abuja. “It is
highly competitive between the fashion designers, the models, stylists
and makeup artists. When you hear fashion in Abuja, names that come to
mind are DZYN, Vodi, Zarita Couture, Gemini, Sashes Couture, Mohanista
Styling, St. Ola Makeup, B. Lavida; and fashion photographers like Ejike
Manny, Ahmed Atta and Eyes of Insanity. All these people dedicate their
time to making sure that the fashion industry here grows to
international heights.”
Regardless
of how much Vugo enjoys his work, he admits that living and working in
the FCT can be challenging. “Abuja is really expensive,” he states
flatly. “At the same time, you make more money and there are more
opportunities in Abuja. When I was in Benue and Enugu, fashion life felt
so stagnant!”
Vugo’s
work ethic is paying off, as he is the official catwalk coach and
choreographer for Queen of Aso for the second year running, and has
chaperoned for Miss Valentine Nigeria and Queen Esther pageants. “One
thing is for sure, Abuja is not for the lazy,” he asserts. “It’s for
determined and hard-working people only. Whatever you do in Abuja, do it
well and you’ll become successful.”
The Agent
Dan
Onoja calls himself an entrepreneur. The CEO of film production outfit
E&D Productions, Onoja also established Fashion Act in 2009. “For
me, [Fashion Act] is quite beyond a modelling agency,” he says. “It’s a
fashion agency to discover, manage and represent talented and aspiring
models, designers, shoe makers, and makeup artists.”
Onoja’s
foray into the business of beauty began in 2007 in his final year at
University of Abuja when he co-organized the Miss Uniabuja beauty
pageant, although the plans fell through. He says he understands the
need for a support system while working in fashion, because the main
issues he’s had in his six-year involvement in the industry is the lack
of financial support to put up events and exhibitions.
“The
problem is the people in Abuja do not really support their own talent,”
he claims. “Some successful fashion events showcase designers and
performing artists from out of Abuja, and pick up any popular fashion
magazine on the street and you will find almost no Abuja designers in
them. Now this is not because they aren't wonderful designers and models
here in Abuja, but I think they are few platforms to make big things
happen. It’s up to us to create platforms for designers and models.”
To
this end, Onoja’s Fashion Act is launching a multi-platform website to
feature online TV, a reality show and galleries for potential clients to
book models. Although he admits that working from the capital can be a
challenge, he is optimistic. “I love it in Abuja,” he says with a dreamy
look. “Maybe it is because it is still fresh ground when it comes to
fashion and entertainment. There is still room for so much to be done.”
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